3.1 Phillip Lim Spring 2015
For a few seasons now, California-born Phillip Lim has been integrating organic shapes into his clothes. See: geodes, sunshine, shadows, etc. But this year, the designer was literally trapped in his bedroom. His apartment in New York was under renovation and the only habitable room he had was his bedroom. That led to his exploration of the boudoir and all of its trappings, from the quilting and tufting on his mattress to the pattern on his own quilt, and a collection that blended the comforts of home with the cool-girl, downtown style that Lim has honed after years in the business.
“It’s become my sanctuary, my safe haven, and now, my inspiration,” the designer said backstage before his fashion show. “The bedroom is this place where you are, at one time exposed, romantically, and on the other, totally protected, because it’s private. It’s very sexy for me this season. And all of the fabrics look like ones you might find in the most beautiful, most feminine boudoir.”
3.1 Phillip Lim Spring 2015
The collection was grounded on cushiony block heels, which looked cozy and textural with the addition of suede and pony. The shoes — along with Lim’s bags — have been building the brand from a ready-to-wear line to a full-fledged collection that’s growing season after season. The texture that appeared on the shoes appeared on the clothes too, which included robe coats (the bedroom’s take on outerwear, naturally) and flowing tops trimmed with suede and swingy quilting pulled from the brocade on mattresses. Raw edges and sheer panels recalled gauzy drapes and might have been a sly nod to lingerie dressing, which continued to be a major trend on the runways, but always seemed too saccharine for Lim’s downtown gals. Obi belts, which were another item we saw from designers from every Fashion Week, were loosely knotted and the girls walked the runway with behead and their jackets undone just so.
Sensuality came by way of draped pieces, which Lim said were all created on a form and pinned, tucked and folded to create curves and hug the body. Overtly sexy? You’d never get that from a Phillip Lim collection, but peeks of skin here and there were just enough to keep things from appearing too buttoned up. Cocktail dresses were loose and languid, as if the models had just rolled out of bed The last few pieces were inspired by rattan and weaving — it goes without saying that Lim wasn’t holed up in a tiny bedroom, but one furnished with some great pieces — with peeks of bright orange and yellow underneath, as if the afternoon sun was streaming through them. It was a collection that was cool, comfortable and easy. More collections like this one will keep Lim fans happy and earn him plenty of new ones. Finding a groove like that isn’t easy. Let’s just say he’s not sleeping on it.
Images courtesy Style.
