3.1 Phillip Lim Spring 2016
Dirt isn’t a runway staple. But there it was — mounds of it — on the runway at 3.1 Phillip Lim. Unlike his New York brethren, Lim isn’t usually one for runway theatrics. But backstage, when he mentioned that all of the dirt was literally his own, things started to make sense. Sculpted by artist Maya Lin, the dirt was actually compost that Lim and his team had been creating for months.
3.1 Phillip Lim Spring 2016
“I was thinking,” he told Vogue, “about where things start. They start from a seed. They start from dirt.”
So from that dirt, Lim produced a collection that was grounded (pun intended 100%) in the things that his label — which celebrated a decade in the business this year —is known for. Far from a greatest hits collection, Lim instead upcycled his house signatures, reworking them just a bit and lightening it all up with new, fresh fabrications and a more laid-back approach to his downtown leanings.
Lim is known for injecting femininity and romance into menswear staples and utilitarian standards. Think parkas, bomber jackets and paper-bag pants. This season, they were shown with ruffles and adorned with 3-D floral appliqué. Sex wasn’t overt, but with slices of skin here and there, it was anything but prissy.
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3.1 Phillip Lim Spring 2016
It was also a chance for Lim to experiment. In lieu of his usual cotton poplins, utilitarian khaki and luxe leathers (though there were several covetable leather toppers — expect to see them on editors come spring), the designer opted for flowing fabrics and even scuba-inspired neoprene. It was another take on his earthy inspiration. The usual suspects were reborn and remade in a whole new way.
Several pieces looked simple, but were complex upon closer inspection. What looked like simple silk was actually an iridescent gazar on a bandeau. A cotton shirt was actually stiff raw silk. That sophisticated hand is what Lim fans have to look forward to in the coming decade. While the designer probably won’t ever shed his West Coast-inflected downtown girls, they’re growing up right along with his line and they’ll need something to wear. Thankfully, Lim is offering up plenty — and it all looks great.
For more information, visit www.31philliplim.com.
Images courtesy Getty and Vogue Runway
