For his sophomore outing, BCBG Max Azria creative director Bernd Kroeber described his four-part collection as “rough glamour.” That’s a far cry from some of BCBG’s past collections, which have leaned bohemian one season, veered towards colorblocked minimalism the next and then went for full-out Hollywood glam the next. Though the brand has earned a loyal following, it seems that in the post-Lubov era of the line, things are starting to go a little smoother. Kroeber continued his mediation on modern-day romance, giving shoppers plenty to love whether they gravitated towards BCBG’s hard edges or softer, more romantic moves. The best part? Mashing them all together, like Kroeber did with a truncated leather jacket and a floor-grazing tiered skirt, made for an unexpectedly fashion-forward combination.
Within his four mini-collections, Kroeber explored what WWD described as “‘tricky’ outerwear, effortless loungewear, sensual eveningwear, and men’s wear inspired silhouettes.” The strongest looks came in the outerwear, which will give BCBG loyalists plenty to be proud of. The brand is oft maligned for prom-ready dresses, but the coats and pants have always been a fan favorite. With bold shoulders, unexpected lengths, and super luxe materials, this season’s BCBG could give MaxMara some wallet-friendly competition.
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The loungewear will be tougher to swallow. While full-length pajama dresses and silk boudoir dresses may look great on computer screens and Instagram, few real-life folk can justify something so specialized. Not everyone swans down a red carpet, after all. But for the HBICs that like to subvert the patriarchy and its somewhat staid tropes, the twisted menswear picks were near perfect. Pinstripes and power colors mixed with BCBG’s signature colorblocking made for feminine suiting that didn’t lose any of its power.
The line’s bread and butter — occasion dresses — came at the end of the quartet. Kroeber added modern touches to the usual romance by adding belts and tailoring to tamp down the saccharine romance. The combination of clean lines and flowing ruffles (not to mention lace panels and delicate beading) was a fresh way to look at after-hours fun. Commercial appeal will always be a cornerstone for a brand like BCBG and Kroeber proved that making things that’ll fly off store racks doesn’t need to be overtly boring. With a new direction firmly set, it looks like it’s time to take a second look at the brand.
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Images courtesy BCBG