Monday Muse: Rachel Comey Goes Militant For Fall 2017

Rachel Comey Fall 2017

Rachel Comey Fall 2017

It rained during Rachel Comey’s L.A. presentation. Set at Hauser Wirth & Schimmel gallery’s open-air space, that could have put a damper on the whole event, but when the clothes paraded out, the rain was the last thing on everyone’s mind. Comey decided to show her collection on the West Coast this season and she probably expected sunshine, but the clothes were strong and hard, which the designer owes to more than just our current political climate.

The usual military touchstones were all present and accounted for. Jumpsuits, camouflage, bomber jackets, cargo pants, and trenches walked the concrete runway, but they all got a bit of a twist. Comey’s known for softening hard edges and adding hard angles to things that are normally flowing and draped — and that M.O. was here, too. Cargo pants were rendered in flowing white and decorated with swirls of embroidery. What looked like olive canvas (used on a uniform of cargo pants and jacket) was actually soft felted wool.

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Rachel Comey Fall 2017

Rachel Comey Fall 2017

It wasn’t all hard and tough, however. In what was essentially a show in two parts, Comey offered up soft shirting that knits that had a touch of vulnerability. They slid off shoulders, draped across collarbones, and were loose and cozy. Puffer coats were done in Persian lamb. It was a high-end take on utility and a very chic way to dress for a protest. That was certainly the point. With sturdy, armor-like leather coats and sturdy power-bitch power suits, we saw skirts and pumps.

It was a collection of contrasts, especially when embellishment and fabric seemed to fight with the clothes that they were used on. It was a showcase of sensuality, hedonism, and power. In all, it was a quiet protest from a designer known for having her opinions heard. Bravo to that.

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Author:Fashion Trends Daily Staff

Fashion Trends Daily Editors deliver the scoop on fashion, beauty, celebrity and runway trends.