Southern California’s Phillip Lim is no stranger to drawing from some unexpected places. Int he past, collections have integrated Victorian details and for pre-fall, Lim is adding a few turn-of-the-century touches to his line — with his signature subversion, of course. Nobody will mistake this collection for anything out of a PBS period drama. Instead, you’ll find Lim’s mashup of atletic touches and streetwear edge embued within the collection of long silhouetes, punk-influenced takes on staples, and Lim’s au courant vision of what girls want to wear right now.
London’s ’70s and ’80s club kids were one starting point, which explains the Doc Marten-inspired boots and black-and-white palette. Add to that a few Victorian touches, like high necks, longline silhouettes and plenty of lacing detail. Pants with bondage straps were paired with leg-of-mutton blouses and rows of buttons were on just about everything.
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One unexpected place the corsetry popped up on? Lim’s revamped denim collection, which puts the “designer” back in designer denim. It’s not just washes and labels — Lim’s collection includes flared culottes, lace-up high-waisted dungarees and even remixes on the classic denim trucke jacket. With corestry details, they looked like special pieces, not just the type of thing to catch the eye of a street style photographer.
Lim’s streetwear leanings were apparent with track pants (this time with paper-bag waists) and parachute pants. A splatter-paint print was used to great effect, especially on long peasant skirts paired with pearl-smattered shirting. It was a romantic collection with an edge, which is exactly how most people would describe Lim’s coterie of fangirls.
For more information, visit www.31philliplim.com.
Images courtesy 3.1 Phillip Lim