After taking a break from the New York Fashion Week schedule, L.A.’s own Rachel Zoe showed a resort collection that seemed like a fresh take on her signatures. It wasn’t until reporters dug a little deeper that she revealed why. Her clothing line’s found a new home (she parted ways with her first licensing partner) and she’s appointed a new head designer. So it was back to basics — though in the glam-to-the-end world of Rachel Zoe, basics are anything but — and the luxe, ’70s tinged pieces that the designer/stylist/personality built her brand on.
“It’s literally new everything,” Zoe told WWD. “A lot of my mentors in this business have said there’s always growing pains and ups and downs. Because being a stylist for 100 years doesn’t mean that I knew this side of the world. I was on the other side and kind of knew it, but as they say, you don’t know until you know.”
After seasons of Studio 54 dresses, Bianca Jagger references and fur vests, it seemed like Zoe had taken us to the club a few too many times. But with new vision and a new collection, we happily returned to the ’70s because this time around, Zoe was giving it all to us through a bit of a boho lens. There were knits and bold, bright florals on maxi dresses and tunics along with tailored flares and silk blouses in deep, saturated hues that recalled both the decadence of the nightlife and the Brady kitchen. Avocado, eggplant and marigold seemed fresh after seasons of monochromatic or black and white dressing. There was also plenty of sheen, seen on long-sleeved gowns and flapper-fringed cocktail frocks.
Favorites such as those fur vests and bow blouses were a little more special thanks to playful details such as a bell sleeve or an ombré finish, giving even the most die-hard Zoe fans something new to lust after.
Zoe admitted that in order to bring more personality to the line (through luxe fabrics and more sophisticated finishes), the prices had to jump up just a bit, putting her in the ranks of advanced contemporary along with labels such as Cushnie et Ochs, Ohne Titel and Marissa Webb. It’s good company, considering Zoe is the first to admit that she’s still new to the world of design.
“We still have great partners and investors and wonderful people, but now we’re in charge of our own destiny.”
Images courtesy Rachel Zoe